La Panaderia, which means “the bakery,” just opened in early February where the Exchange meets Chinatown, offering a selection of freshly baked Mexican and Latin American pastries and treats that you’d be hard-pressed to find in other areas of the city.
Owner Brenda Hernandez-Acosta moved to Winnipeg from Mexicali, Baja California ten years ago, and after spending the last decade baking in various kitchens from Baked Expectations to Cocoa Beans and Costco she was excited to open up her own shop with her family.
“This is my passion,” said Hernandez-Acosta, pointing around shop. “I love to bake and being close to an oven is my happy place. It’s not even like a job for me, it’s like I’m playing everyday.”
As it turns out, locals––particularly members of Winnipeg's Latin American community––have already discovered this happy place too.
“The Latino and Mexican community is of course excited, but I didn’t expect people waiting for us [to open],” said Hernandez-Acosta. “I was thinking on the first day we’d have to be on the street saying, ‘okay, please come to my place!’ But it wasn't like that. We have been crazy here, and I have been working like 14-hour shifts every day!”
Located in the former home of Harrison’s Coffee Co. La Panaderia features fun murals and Milagros (folk charms) that Hernadez-Acosta has made to decorate one wall. The pastry counter and cooler, which she is having to restock several times a day, is filled with must-try sweets.
The churro cheesecake has a marvellous texture and flavour, giving you the best of both worlds (that being the churro world, and the cheesecake world, which is a multiverse we could get behind). Sandwiched between two cinnamon loaded layers of churro dough, the velvety cheesecake binds it all together and gives it that Bavarian cream ode like a stuffed churros would, while there's something to be said about how churro dough as a base will always beat your traditional graham cracker crumble. You could dive into the not too sweet tres leches cake given the moisture level (we assure you, all three milks are present). It's topped with a light whipped cream that is swirled with a lovely caramel sauce, while cinnamon again sings throughout. My kids absolutely lost their minds over this cake, and I've learned now to buy two.
For breads, there’s telera and bolillos (a football-shaped roll), both of which are ideal for making sandwiches/tortas. These breads are also used in-house to make molletes––an open-faced bean and cheese sandwich. We tried the version with crunchy chorizo crumble that comes with a side of pico de gallo and it made for a nice little breakfast. Other savoury dishes include everyone’s favourite chorizo dip, queso fundido.
For pastries, there are several types of conchas––sweet, shell shaped buns that are great for dunking in coffee, along with several savoury pastries like gluten-free quesadilla Salvadoreña (made with rice flour, hard cheese and topped with sesame seeds). One of Hernandez’s daughters is celiac, so there are plenty of gluten-friendly options like flan and cornbread, while the tres leches cake can also be made gluten-friendly upon request.
And speaking of family, La Panaderia is a real family affair. Her son Hervey Jr was working when we came in, while her husband Hervey and daughters Carla and Vivian, and other son Aidan also help out on weekends.
“I want people to feel like they are in Mexico,” said Hernandez. “And, when people come they are now part of our family, because we talk a lot with them, and we try to make it feel like a family.”
La Panaderia (218 Princess St), is open 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Friday, Saturday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m., and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
